I love this new flavor profile with the beer and pretzel spaghetti. If you remember the first one I did (here) it was a more traditional flavor pairing with spicy mustard and beer braised bratwurst. I found this combination to work even better. I really love this flavored pasta and look forward to hearing what others think of it once Ariccia opens it’s doors next month. Stay tuned.
Beer & Pretzel Spaghetti
Chile Glazed Shrimp, Sriracha Cream, Mint
Those of you who have never had the privilege of eating perfectly cooked scrambled eggs, may just over look this post because you don’t know what you are missing. Lots of people associate scrambled eggs with being over cooked with the texture of rubber, but for those who have had them cooked properly know how amazing they can be. A few years ago I dined at Joel Robuchon @ the Mansions and one of the 16 courses we had was asparagus 3 ways. This was one of the moments where you’re like holy shit what kind of scrambled eggs have I been eating over the past years. I had this dish almost 3 years ago and I still remember it to this day. To achieve a professional-standard creamy scrambled eggs you have to cook them in a bain-marie, involving nearly half an hour of vigilant stirring. Very time consuming. By contrast cooking them to the same level of quality by sous vide simply requires a gentle cooking on a low heat and an occasional massaging of the bag with your hands to scramble the eggs. Just another reason why sous vide cooking needs and should be adopted by home cooks.
Recipe (adapted from Heston Blumenthal)
Serves 2
6 Large Eggs
25g Whole Milk
20g Heavy Cream
pinch of salt
20g Unsalted butter, melted
20g Brown Butter
1oz Caviar (optional)
Preparation:
Pre-Heat the water-bath to 75c
In a bowl, blend the eggs, milk, cream and salt with a hand blender or a whisk, then stir in the melted butter.
Divide the egg mixture in half and pour into two sous-vide bags. Seal under full pressure. For those that do not have a chamber vacuum (I don’t) you can use your regular food sealer. Pulse it to remove as much air as possible without sucking the liquid into the machine and seal.
Place the bags in the water bath and allow to cook for 15 minutes, massaging the eggs every 3-5 minutes. Mine took about 20 minutes but I think it was due to still having air in the bag. They are done when you can see the eggs starting to slightly come together.
To serve, remove the scrambled eggs from the bags and top with caviar and a drizzle of brown butter. Enjoy the best scrambled eggs you will ever have.
I have been wanting to make porchetta di testa for awhile now. I finally decided to go for it last week. I followed Chef Chris Cosentino video and recipe on the process. Video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nByH6yPWYj8.
Pig Head
After removing the meat from the head, roast the skull in the oven to make a rich flavorful stock.
Pig face
Tuck the fat part of the tongue under the snout. Fold ears through the eye holes. Season heavily with salt, and spices. Place in fridge over night.
All tied up
Vacuumed sealed and ready for it’s 14hr water bath at 87.5c
14# pig head just fits inside the sous vide supreme. After its finished cooking submerge in ice bath and let cool. Place in fridge for 1day to let fat congeal and for porchetta to set.
Remove from bag and carefully peal gelatin and fat away. After you get as much off as you can with your hands, rinse under water and pat dry. You are now ready to slice. This is something that needs to be sliced very thin so a slicer is much needed but it can be done by hand.
The finished results were good but not where I want them to be. I’m going to give it another try in the next few weeks with a new plan of attack. After deboning I am going to brine the meat overnight in a pork brine. I will then season it more heavily than this time, roll and tie and let it sit in the fridge for two days before finally cooking it sous vide at 87.5c for 14hrs. I think that the brine and longer dry cure is going to help build the intense flavors you want and expect from a porchetta.
STFT Burgers (www.stftburgers.com) is a burger concept I came up with about 6 years ago. It was before the huge burger craze took over the country. I spent a lot of time and money trying to get this concept going, unfortunately the economy went to shit when it was time to look for investors. Trying to raise capital for a restaurant is hard enough nevermind in a recession. I still love this concept and plan on launching it in the future but will have to keep it on the back burner for the time being. Here is what would have been the signature burger of STFT.
BLTA Burger
Pork & Bacon Patty stuffed w/ Apple Wood Smoked Gouda
Arugula/Slow Roasted Tomatoes/Avocado Crema/Brioche
BLT’s and burgers are two of my favorite things and I wanted to come up with a way to combine them into one. This is how the BLTA burger was born.
Making the perfect french fry turned out to be one of the most difficult things to accomplish. I wanted a lightly golden and crispy fry. Most of the time they were coming out soggy and dark. I tried every temp and technique possible, fry them twice, etc. Sometimes they would come out perfect and you would think you had figured it out until you tried to do it again. It wasn’t until the wonderful people at Serious Eats who were having the same issues as I and I’m sure most people who make fries at home had. They did a much more in depth review that you can read here http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/05/the-burger-lab-how-to-make-perfect-mcdonalds-style-french-fries.html
French Fry Recipe
Rancho Valencia
5921 Valencia Circle
Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067
858 756 1123
http://www.ranchovalencia.com/
Dined here on March 4, 2011
Rancho Valencia is sort of a hidden gem in San Diego. The area was “discovered” in the early 1900s by movie director Theodore Reed. He suggested that his friend, screen idol Douglas Fairbanks, purchase the property as an investment. In 1924, Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks bought 800 acres, named their property “Rancho Zorro” and planted 300 acres with Valencia oranges.
In 1989, adjacent to these historic acres, developer Harry Collins and architect James Morton built Rancho Valencia and several homes in the surrounding area. Working with interior designer Hank Milam and landscape architects Abby Drewliner and Bill Burton, they meticulously planned every resort detail, from the many antique furnishings, the hand-painted tile work, to the positioning of each of the suites and the lush landscaping.
The problem is not much if anything has changed since being built. Although it’s a beautiful property and location, it is extremely outdated especially the restaurant, Up until a few months ago the food matched the décor. If you wanted a well-done filet with asparagus or a basic salmon dish, then this was the place to be. Now as the resort prepares for it’s first renovation since being built, the food is the first glimpse in what we can expect from the multi million-dollar remodel.
Amuse
Yogurt, Cucumber, Meyer Lemon
This was a nice palate-cleansing dish but I think that it would have worked better as an intermezzo. Being this was the first thing I ate, my palate was fresh and ready for a bold one to two bite amuse to wake my palate up and to show what’s to come.
Winter Root Vegetables, Stems & Flowers, Seaweed
This was one of the highlights of the whole dinner. Fresh crisp vegetables accompanied by a reduced dashi sauce that was rich and robust with a nice smoky flavor that didn’t have me looking for a protein. When I asked where the smoke flavor came from the server said it was a chef secret, as most of us know, rendered bacon fat is always a chefs secret weapon.
Spotted Bass, Brassicas, Black Truffle Jus
The bass was spot on with a pleasantly crisp skin but the sauces are what really made the dish a winner. The black truffle jus with the addition of squid ink added a great earthy brininess to the fish and mixed with onion puree made it perfectly balanced.
Tete presse, Egg Yolk, Snap Pears, Potato
This dish was easily the favorite of the night. You could tell this was a labor intensive dish and must of have taken at least 3-4 days to complete. The tete presse was so ethereal and delicate that it just melted on your tongue. The broth was a reduction of the pork braising liquid and had the same similar smoky flavor that we loved in the dashi sauce. The pickled radishes added the perfect acidity that was essential to cutting through the richness of the dish.
Foie Gras, Date Puree, Candied Garlic, Rosemary
I always look forward to the foie gras course and this did not disappoint. Although the presentation of this dish was a little messy and difficult to capture in a picture. The flavors won me over. This was the first time that foam actually had a strong flavor that complemented the other components.
Beef Entrecote, Leeks, Charred Pears, Caper Marrow Jus
I can’t fault this dish as everything was executed properly. The charred pears added a nice surprising flavor and the jus paired well with the beef. However I recently came to the conclusion that unless the beef is Kobe or dry aged, there really is nothing special about it. I would much rather have a game meat or just something braised.
Chamomile Mousse, Citrus Confit, Carrot Sorbet
This was the only complete miss of the night. The carrot sorbet was way strong and overpowering and the grapefruit left a bitter taste on my palate that just wouldn’t go away.
Overall this was a really great tasting and showed how much the food has evolved at Rancho Valencia. Every component was cooked and seasoned properly and had purpose for being there with exception of the dessert course. Once the remodel is finished and the décor matches the food this is going to be one of the better restaurants in San Diego. I look forward to returning even in the midst of a remodel to see how the food is evolving.
Tags: http://www.staying-awake.org, http://www.whyhcg.com, http://www.myprovigil.com
El Bizcocho
17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive
San Diego, CA 92128
(858) 675-8550
http://www.ranchobernardoinn.com/bizcocho/
Dined here on Feb 17, 2011
I finally had the chance to try El Bizcocho last night.. Those of you that have never been there, let me first say this, this hotel is in the strangest location I’ve ever seen.. It’s literally at the end of a cul de sac of a residential neighborhood.. The inside of the restaurant is very old school they will be going through a million dollar renovation in the coming months that will hopefully make it a little more up with times..
Now on to the food..
Amuse
Lamb Tartare
Violet Mustard, Micro Salad
This was a nice start to the meal.. The lamb was super tender and the mustard and what I think was worcestershire gave it nice acidic tang to it..
Heirloom Beets
Frisee, Candied Walnuts, Fennel, Avocado Pudding, Beet Gelee
Beets were cooked and seasoned perfectly.. The only thing I missed was the avocado pudding it got lost in the mix..
Porchetta di Testa
Watermelon Radish, Mache, Fried Shallot Vinaigrette
One of the favorites of the night.. This porchetta di testa was melt in your mouth tender.. Great flavors I would love this sliced a little thicker and on a sandwich.. So good..
Asparagus Soup
40 Minute Egg, Black Truffle, Prosciutto, Essence of Chamomile
The soup was poured table side.. The soup was the proper consisentcy and had great flavor.. I wish that the yolk on the egg was a little bit more runny and that there was more prosciutto throughout.. I like a little crunch for texture in soups..
Foie Gras
Apple Chutney, Pan De’Epices, Huckleberry, Arugula
Overall solid but I wish that the piece of foie gras was a little bit thicker.. The chutney was a nice compliment to the foie..
Scallop
Salsify, Fennel, Bacon Powder, Caramel Froth, Mizuna
Loved this dish second favorite of the night.. The scallop was cooked and seasoned perfectly.. Loved everything it was paired with but missed the bacon powder.
Pork Belly
Spiced Guava polenta, Piquillo Pistachio Relish, Olive Crumb
Best dish of the night and one of the best pork belly dishes I’ve had in a very long time.. When reading what was in this dish it sounds a little weird.. Guava polenta? upon trying it everything made sense.. The guava polenta reminded me of peanut butter and the acid from the piquillo cut through the richness of the polenta and belly.. So good loved it!
Filet Mignon
Bone Marrow, Asparagus, Golden Beets, Smoked Pommes
Not that great of a picture.. It’s been a long time since I had a big piece of filet.. Although this was cooked properly I much rather have a fattier cut.. Ribeye or Ny.. I just kept missing the fat in each bite.. I loved the sides especially the smoked pommes.
Chocolate Pistachio “Creme Brulee”
Good dessert huge portion.. I’m not a dessert person but I actually enjoyed this.. Pistachio is one of my favorite things and love it paired with chocolate..
Zeppoli
The zeppoli themselves were nice and soft would have liked them filled with a sauce.. Wasn’t a fond of the strawberry gelee on the bottom.. The only miss of the night..
Overall I really enjoyed the dinner and look forward to returning.. There was some real standouts like the pork belly, scallop and porchetta.. All the food was seasoned and cooked perfectly, execution is there and I was surprised to find out that there is only 4 cooks in the whole kitchen.. Apparently the food and bev manager who is no longer there cleaned house and got rid of almost everyone.. El Bizcocho is definitely in somewhat of a transition period right now. I’m curious to see how this place turns out after the remodel and what Travis will do with the menu..
Relate Restaurant @ St. Germains
Encinitas, CA
http://relaterestaurant.com/
Dined here on Feb 3, 2011
Soft Opening
Click pictures for larger versions..
I just got back from the soft opening of Relate and wanted to post a quick review of the nights dishes.. I thought it was a solid showing for a soft opening.. Front of house needed a little work but that’s understandable for this type of situation..
Carrot Consommé Shooter
This was a great starter.. strong ginger flavor on the nose from the froth but didn’t over power.. Would love to have a full portion of this.. I didn’t get a picture of this..
Roasted Baby Beet Salad, Golden Beet Vinaigrette
Perfect seasonal salad.. Beets were cooked perfectly and loved the cinnamon vinaigrette..
Butter Poached Lobster, Warm Egg & Caviar Salad, Leeks, Beet Chip with Fennel Jam, Onion Froth
My personal favorite of the night.. Lobster was cooked to perfection.. Leeks were melt in your mouth and the fennel jam was excellent.. Perfect dish all around
Rabbit Cassoulet
My second favorite of the night.. This was a nice hearty dish and wish it was a bigger portion.. The rabbit with the addition of duck confit was perfect..
Spiced Beef, Spinach Avocado Puree, Crispy Porcini Spaetzle, Black Truffle, Guinness Gastrique
This was a solid dish but the portion of steak was to small in comparison to the puree and spaetzle.. Overall though the flavors went nicely together and really enjoyed the spaetzle..
Smoked S’mores, House-Made Graham Crakers, Agave Marshmallow, Chipotle-Orange Ganache, Tequila Crème Anglaise
This was my least favorite of the night.. I didn’t think it really went with the rest of the dishes.. I found the presentation to be a little boring and I’m not a fan of doing heart shape anything..
I think Chef Moody did a great job and I look forward to returning soon.. I think once the front of house gets more comfortable and Chef Moody gets into his rhythm we will be in for great run.. Chef Moody I just want to thank you for letting me join you on your soft opening, it was a pleasure meeting you and I wish you the best of luck..
I’ve been anticipating the opening of Bankers Hill since I heard about it months back. I finally got the chance a week after it’s grand opening. I have to say I’m not that impressed with it. I thought the menu was a little boring. Everything was straight forward. I mean do we really need a basic crab cake dish or deviled egg? I wish that Carl being as talented as he is, took a little more of a chance with this menu and played around with it. I don’t understand how you can open a new restaurant with the same old food. Where is the innovation? What I did like were the Mussels, fries and the pork tacos. Although on the taco’s there was no need for the carrots and green beans on the side. I would rather pay an extra two dollars and get rid of that in place of another taco. They have a great selection of beer even carrying Ferran Adria’s Estrella. I think the design of the place came out well but is lacking color big time. All the walls are dark and the bar looks dirty with the way they painted it. Also service was a little spotty forgetting silverware, not clearing plates but I can’t hold to much to that as they have only been open a week. My overall thoughts are that it’s good and would go back for the mussels and a beer but that’s about it. I want to see chefs taking chances not doing the same old thing and charging a little less for it.
Dinning Room
Bar
Steamed Mussels & Andouille Sausage
Roasted Sweet Peppers, Garlic-Parsley Toast
Truffled French Fries
Truffle Aioli, Parmesan Cheese
‘Deviled Farmers’ Market Eggs
Lemon Potato Chips, Arugula-Parmesan Salad
Crispy Dungeness Crab & Rockshrimp Cakes
Beluga Lentil- Arugula Salad, Chili Aioli
Braised Chicken Pappardelle
Pinot Noir Sauce, Caramelized Carrots, Arugula
Crispy BBQ Braised Pork Tacos
Pepper Jack Cheese, Avocado, Lime Sour Cream
Cast Iron Roasted King Salmon
Asparagus, Fresh Chickpeas, Baby Spinach
Cabernet Braised Beef Shortribs
Yukon Gold Whipped Potatoes, Roasted Vegetables
Almond Bread Pudding
Cucina Urbana
