Gourmands Review

 

Monthly Archive for February, 2009

Osteria Mozza

Published on February 24, 2009 in Los Angeles. 0 Comments Tags: , .

Osteria Mozza

6602 Melrose Ave

Los Angeles, CA 90038

(323) 397-0100 

www.mozza-la.com

     Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich fused their talents together to come up with arguably the best Italian restaurant Southern California has ever seen.

     Mario Batali perhaps the most famous and influential Italian chef in America is part owner of 14 successful and award winning restaurants in New York, Las Vegas, and now Los Angeles.  He believes like most things, food is best when left to its own simplicity.  

     Joseph Bastianich who began his culinary adventure very young, working in his parent’s Felice and Lidia Bastianich Italian restaurant in Queens, NY. Joseph quickly evolved into becoming one of Americas premier award winning Restaurateurs and renowned winemakers.

     Nancy Silverton is yet another prominent figure in Americas culinary world.  She began by attending Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in London, England, achieving her a solid basis in culinary arts.  After working under Jimmy Brinkele in Santa Monica CA, she discovered her love for pastry, and returned to Europe to attended Lenotre Culinary Institute in Plasir, France to perfect her skills.  After years of experience and working with some of the finest chefs, she quickly became one of the best pastry chefs/bakers around. After all, she is the first to bring authentic European bread to Southern California by opening La Brea Bakery, her celebrated bakery in Los Angeles.

      It was inevitable that once these three superstar chefs joined forces, the results would be magical.

     Osteria Mozza makes you instantly forget you’re in the middle of Los Angeles.  Instead takes you to a place of comfort and warmth, the music is lively, the lights are dim, and the staff is very accommodating and knowledgeable.  Helpful when you need translation for some of the Italian words on the menu.

     The Cuisine is an enticing tour through Italy.  With delicacy items such as, crispy pigs trotter (pigs feet), calf’s brain ravioli, and tripe.  If you were ever to experiment with such unique items, I couldn’t think of a better place that would prepare them to perfection yet still keep their integrity. In addition to the exotic dishes is the mozzarella bar with fresh ricotta, buffalo mozzarella, and my personal favorite burrata. 

     Osteria Mozza has it all, the ambiance, service and most importantly, authentic Italian food. It is truly an unforgettable experience.

Mozza

Crostini, ricotta, tapenade, basil

amuseweb

Grilled Sardines with radish salsa verde

sardinesweb

Grilled Octopus with potatoes, celery & lemon

octopusweb

Burrata with leeks vinaigrette & mustard breadcrumbs

burrataweb

Burrata with bacon, marinated escarole & caramelized shallots

burrata

Ricotta Gnudi with braised leeks & lemon 

I have my version of this dish in the recipe section.

gnudiweb

Calf’s Brain Ravioli with sage & lemon

calfbrainsweb

Fresh Ricotta & Egg Raviolo with browned butter

ravweb

pastaeggweb

Grilled Leg of Lamb  

lambweb

Cipolline with thyme and sherry vinegar

onionsweb

Tags: http://www.staying-awake.org, http://www.whyhcg.com, http://www.myprovigil.com

Decanter Wine Lounge & Restaurant

Published on February 21, 2009 in San Diego. 0 Comments Tags: , .

Decanter Wine Lounge & Restaurant

Cielo Hillside Village

18021 Calle Ambiente

Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067

www.decanterwinelounge.com

The long awaited Decanter wine lounge & restaurant has finally opened its doors.  Located in the newly developed Cielo Village in Rancho Santa Fe, Decanter has beautiful views of the Cielo hillside that make you instantly feel at peace. Owner/Sommelier Jason Knack has ten years experience in the fine dining scene as former manager of The Wine Lover in San Diego and Nine-ten in La Jolla.  Jason, who is also a resident of Rancho Santa Fe knows what is missing in the north county dining scene.

I know that the restaurant is still working out the kinks of just opening three weeks ago but I cannot over look basic fundamentals in the kitchen.  First is seasoning, every dish I had tasted as if there was no salt added at all.  Just completely bland which I wouldn’t take so much offense to if there had been salt and pepper on the table.  If you want to be one of those restaurants that doesn’t put salt and pepper on the table you better make sure that every dish is spot on.  Second were the vegetables.  On each dish that had them they were under seasoned and undercooked. They were so al dente it was as if they were blanched for a minute and then just tossed on the plate.  Third, was how long it took for each course to come out and to be cleared.  It was quite a while considering only three other tables were occupied.  I don’t know if this was on the kitchen or servers but either way four courses should not take three hours.

Overall the experience was good.  I enjoyed two great glasses of wine on the ever-growing wine list.  Which will eventually offer over 200 wines by the glass, more than any other restaurant in the country.  I briefly met Jason on the way out and he seems to be a very humble guy that is passionate about his restaurant.  I feel once everyone gets in the groove, this is going to be exactly what north county has been missing, and I’m looking forward to it.

 

Red torpedo onion soup, manchego, micro chives

onionsoupweb

This tasted as bad as it looked.  I don’t understand what the chef was going for here.  It was completely flavorless.  Tasted like onion stock.

Hand cut pappardelle, hedgehog mushrooms, salsify

pastaweb

Pasta slightly over cooked and a very crunchy piece of salisfy was hidden under the pasta.  What was the point?

Loc Durc salmon, crosne, black trumpet mushrooms, marjoram

salmonweb

Best dish of the night. Everything was cooked and seasoned to perfection.  This is what I expected all dishes to be like.

Duck confit, roasted parsnips, faro, blood orange sauce

duckconfitweb

Was boring visually and flavor wise.  The duck was missing that crisp skin and under seasoned.  Parsnips were way undercooked and under seasoned. 

Braised spiced rubbed pot roast, garden vegetables, pan jus

potroastweb

The pot roast was very flavorful and tender.  The sauce although tasty was too oily.  Vegetables were the most poorly cooked on this dish, or should I say not cooked?

Bosc pear tart, chantilly cream

peartartweb

Why is the tart swimming?  Was it to cover the dryness of the crust?  Well, it didn’t work because I felt as if I was eating a bunch of dry crackers.

 

 

Crescent Heights

Published on February 6, 2009 in San Diego. 0 Comments Tags: , .

Crescent Heights

655 West Broadway, Suite 150

San Diego, CA 92101

www.crescentheightssd.com/

     Crescent Heights is the newest addition to the San Diego food scene.  Opening just four months ago on the ground floor of  the remarkable 655 West Broadway.  Chef and owner David McIntyre has worked in some of the most respected kitchens in the Los Angeles area.  He got his start at Joachim Splichal’s Patina where he was introduced to the art of fine dining and established his style of cooking.  From there he moved to Wolfgang Pucks flagship restaurant Spago.  He quickly worked his way up to sous chef and then Kitchen Manager.  After eight years at Spago he became the consultant chef at Cut, Wolfgang’s signature steakhouse at the Regent Beverly Wilshire.  After doing his time in LA he moved down to San Diego to open Crescent Heights.

      The restaurant is beautifully designed by Akar Studios who also designed Blanca in Solana Beach.  The bar and lounge area was packed with a younger crowd partaking in the happy hour menu that they offer.  The dining room, which is behind the bar looks onto their patio and Broadway.  I noticed that people kept entering through the patio, which brings them right into the main dining room.  The problem is that no one is there to greet them and it’s usually a server that takes them to the proper entrance with the hostess.  Also the opening of the door causes a cold draft to come through the dining room on colder nights.

     I found the menu to be a little boring and lacking variety.  It didn’t leave me wanting to plan a return visit.  I started off with the Celery Root Soup with black trumpet mushrooms and preserved Meyer lemon.

celeryrootsoup

Perfectly seasoned.  Mushrooms well cooked.  Preserved Meyer lemon gave the dish a lot more depth.

Chino Farms Beet & Burrata Salad

Prosciutto di Parma, roasted peppers, 25 yr aged balsamic & pistou

burratasalad

I thought this was the perfect summer dish.  The problem is it’s January.   The salad was cold, crisp and refreshing.  The roasted peppers underneath the burrata were a nice addition.

Seafood Risotto

Dungeness crab, sweet shrimp & preserved Meyer lemon

seafoodrissoto

Risotto was creamy, shrimp were cooked well but the dish overall was under seasoned.  Presentation needed some color everything just blended together.

Pan-Roasted Wild Striped Bass

Artichokes, fingerling potatoes, confit bacon, pearl onions & preserved lemon mustard

stripedbass

This was the best dish of the night.  The bass had the most perfectly crisp skin and seasoning was spot on.  The bacon confit melted in my mouth like pork belly but with that smoky bacon flavor.  I loved it.

Pan-Roasted Maple Leaf Duck Breast

Parsnip puree, roasted butternut squash and rutabaga,

Brussels sprouts & Hen-of-the-Woods mushrooms

duck

Strong duck flavor with crisp skin.  Mushrooms were garlicky and rich.

Braised Colorado Lamb Shank

Parmesan polenta, sauteed rapini, sun-dried tomatoes & gremolata

lambshank

I found the lamb to be a little dry. Polenta was excellent creamy, cheesy strong parm flavor. Good seasonal dish.

Huckleberry Soufflé

Crème fraiche gelato & crème anglaise

souffle

Amazing light fluffy

Overall everything was cooked well it just lacks that innovativeness to make it stand out.

 

Kitchen 1540

Published on February 3, 2009 in San Diego. 2 Comments Tags: , .

Kitchen 1540

1540 Camino Del Mar

Del Mar, CA 92104

Phone 858-793-6460

www.kitchen1540.com

Kitchen 1540 is what the San Diego food scene has been waiting for, an innovative restaurant and chef who have a passion for food.  Chef Paul McCabe is doing exactly that showcasing his love for cooking and quality ingredients.  The menu is well rounded with something that everyone can enjoy.  Two personal favorites of mine on the regular dinner menu are the Scottish Salmon served with preserved lemon spaetzle, sweet & sour pomegraranate sauce and a fennel salad.  Also the stone seared foie gras where Chef Paul’s whimsical nature comes into play putting blood orange pop rocks(yes, the candy) on the stone. You can hear them popping as the dish comes to the table.

On my most recent visit I had chef Paul prepare an off menu tasting.  He put together twelve impressive courses that had many stand out components that caught my attention right away (popcorn puree, olive oil powder, BBQ consommé, nitro beets) The menu itself had my name printed a top a little personal touch that Chef Paul likes to add.  The food overall was very impressive hamachi and pork cracklings, scallop chicken skin crouquant and popcorn puree.  The absolute stand out of the night was the pork belly in a BBQ consommé.  It could have been at any three star Michelin restaurant, it was that good.  The pork belly had a nice crisp skin and the warm fat just melted in your mouth.  Combined with the consommé and you have a refined play on baby back ribs.  The only draw back of the night was the portion size of each dish.  I was with three other diners and we went through three baskets of bread and ordered an additional foie dish before dessert.  Also the dessert was very uninspired it did not match the creativeness that chef Paul put forth with the savory courses.  Even with these minor drawbacks Kitchen 1540 is well ahead of its competition.  This is a restaurant that we foodies in San Diego and especially North County will certainly appreciate.

Kitchen1540Patio

Patio Day & Night

Kitchen1540Patio

Mojito Raviolo/ Gin & Tonic Cube

mojitoravweb

Foie Gras Cookie, Huckleberry Skewer

foiecookieweb

Foie Gras Cookie

foieweb

Hamachi, Pork Cracklings, Steelhead Roe, Fennel

hamachiweb

Scallop, Popcorn Puree, Chicken Skin Crouguant, Maple

popcornpureweb

Nitro Beets, Caramelized Yogurt, Pistachio

beetsaladweb

Cauliflower, Uni, Truffles

uniweb

Monk Fish, Chorizo, Potato, Salsa Verde

fishweb

Pork Belly, BBQ Consomme, Winter Salad

Pork Belly, BBQ Consomme, Winter Salad

Pork Belly, BBQ Consomme

Pork Belly, BBQ Consomme

Elk, Molasses, Boniato, Blackberry

Elk, Molasses, Boniato, Blackberry

Goat Cheese, Lemon Curd, Rosemary, Olive Oil Powder

Goat Cheese, Lemon Curd, Rosemary, Olive Oil Powder

Flexible Chocolate, Curry, Coconut

Flexible Chocolate, Curry, Coconut

 

 

 

Providence LA

Published on February 3, 2009 in Los Angeles. 1 Comment Tags: , .

Providence

5955 Melrose Ave

Los Angeles, CA 90038

www.providencela.com

       Recently, I had a chance to sit down at one of only three restaurants in Los Angeles to be awarded two Michelin stars. The restaurant, Providence was recommended by a friend of mine who is a well-known chef. Up until this point I had never heard of it so I decided to do some research on the restaurant. I was pleasantly surprised to find out executive chef and owner, Michael Cimarusti is a notable chef earning two stars from the New York Times for Osteria del Circo and 3.5 stars from the Los Angeles Times for Watergrill. Chef Cimarustis’s work at Providence is some of the most original out there. I knew I had to give it a try myself.

    Providence is a beautiful property located on Melrose Avenue. This space was previously occupied by the original Patina. The building is dimly lit from the outside and gives you a mysterious and somewhat intimidating feel. This could be nothing further from the truth. That intimidating feel quickly disappears, as the maitre d opens the front door and welcomes you in. On your right is the bar lounge area. It’s a good size with a sleek white bar, and floor to ceiling glass wine cellars through out. The dining room, which is on your left, has a very warm sophisticated look to it. The high back white leather booths are a nice addition to make your dinner a little more intimate

    On this night I chose a booth in the left corner of the restaurant which gave me a view of the whole dining room. As I reached my table and got comfortable, the waiter quickly greeted me. He took my beverage order and handed me my menu. I already knew I was going all out for this meal so by the time he came back with my drink I already knew, “Chef’s tasting with wine pairing please”!

Amuse Bouche

Greyhound, Mojito, Gin & Tonic

Greyhound, Mojito, Gin & Tonic

This was a nice palate cleanser refreshing, sweet, and awoke my taste buds on what was to come.

1st Course

Kanpachi, Shiso, Wasabi Oil

Wine: Nicolas Feuillatte Brut M.V.

kanpachiweb

Clean, simple, with perfect spice.

2nd Course

Uni, Cauliflower Parfait, Crispy Buckwheat, Summer Truffle

uniweb1

Creamy, good crunch from the buckwheat, truffle was lost in the richness of the uni and cauliflower. 

3rd Course

Hokkaido Scallops, Satsuma, Black Olives, Piquillo

Wine: Dry Muscat, “Gessami” Gramona 2006

scallopweb

The scallop was extremely delicate and the sweetness of the sauce made the scallop that much sweeter. The piece of tarragon left me with a strong after taste. 

4th Course

Japanese Sword Squid Thai Style, Peanuts Mint, Carrots, Red Curry

Wine: Riesling Kabinett, “Oppenheim Sackrger” Kuhling-Gillot 2002

padthaiweb

I loved this dish!  It was so innovative. The squid took the place of the noodle.  The authentic Thai flavors gave you that nose clearing spice. 

5th Course

Halibut (Norway), Burdock, Shiso, Lemon

Wine: Chardonnay, Fort Ross Reserve 2004

halibutweb

This dish was perfection. I think it really shows what Chef Cimarusti is all about. The meatiness of halibut and array of textures from the burdock and cracker made this dish flawless.

6th Course

Sweetbreads, Almond, Summer Truffle, Maine Lobster, Jus De Crustace

Wine: Chenin Blanc, Leo Steen 2007

Sweetbreads, Almond, Summer Truffle, Maine Lobster, Jus De Crustace

Sweetbreads were crisp and had a rotisserie flavor to them. Lobster was cooked perfect. Seared parsnip fry was a nice touch. 

7th Course

Pork Belly, Kyoho Grapes, Pickled Ramps, Mizuna

porkbellyweb1

This dish reminded me of an Asian pork belly sandwich without the steamed bun. 

8th Course

Artic Char, Crosnes, Bacon, Basil, Baby Artichoke, Juliet Tomatoes, Sauce Vin Rouge

Wine: Pinot Nero, “Meczan” J. Hofstatter 2007

articcharweb

Char was cooked to perfection with a nice crisp skin. Bacon added a nice depth to the dish.

9th Course

Freshwater Eel & Foie Gras, Shimeji Mushrooms, Truffle Fondue

Wine: Bourgogne, Domaine Morey-Coffinet 2006

Artic Char, Crosnes, Bacon, Basil, Baby Artichoke, Juliet Tomatoes, Sauce Vin Rouge

This was the only miss of the night. The foie was completely overpowered by the eel.  In addition, the foie was too thin of a piece to have the warm fat pop out like it usually does.  The eel didn’t have a crisp outside which I expected.

10th Course

Take Two

Seared Foie Gras

Wine: Bourgogne, Domaine Morey-Coffinet 2006

foiegrasweb

I was glad to see that this had what I felt was missing in the first foie dish. The warm fat just exploded out while the sweet earthy flavors from the sauce and puree completed it. 

11th Course

Lamb Shoulder and Saddle, Carrot Puree, Vadouvan, Spring Onion, Roasted Baby Carrots.

Wine: Malbec, Tiza 2005

Lamb Shoulder and Saddle, Carrot Puree, Vadouvan, Spring Onion, Roasted Baby Carrots.

The saddle was very tender and flavorful.  The roasted carrots and carrot puree were good on their own and with the lamb. I just don’t agree with having two different preparations of the same vegetable. 

12th Course

Cheese Selection

Wine: Corvina, Alegrini, Palazzo Della Torre 2004

At this point, a cart was brought over with a choice of about fifteen different cheeses.  I tried three but the one that stands out the most is the Rouge River Blue Reserve. This cheese was absolutely amazing.  It was so good, that I went to my local cheese shop the next day to try to find it. They didn’t have the reserve but they did have the regular, which is just as good.

13th Course

Celery Sorbet, Apples & Almonds

Celery Sorbet, Apples & Almonds

This was a nice way to end the savory courses. The sorbet had a strong celery flavor that was very refreshing.

14th Course

Kalamansi Gelee, White Chocolate Coconut Soy Milk Soup, Litchi-Shiso Sorbet

coconutsoupweb

Light refreshing with a good crunch. 

15th Course

Sous-Vide Jonalicious Apple, Barley Ice Cream, Pine Nut Purée, North Star Dried Cherries

Wine: Muscat-ottenel, Beerenauslese, Velich 2001

Sous-Vide Jonalicious Apple, Barley Ice Cream, Pine Nut Purée, North Star Dried Cherries

Everything was good just needed that special something to make it stand out.

16th Course

Burnt Caramel Ice Cream, Chocolate, Ginger Bread, Pears

afroweb

This was a solid dessert. The chocolate, ginger bread and pears were a wonderful combination and the caramel ice cream had great flavor.

Here I am four hours later and 16 courses fuller and my Michelin starred night in L.A. is coming to an end. Chef Cimarusti has taken my palate on a wild ride.  This experience has introduced me to some new innovative techniques and new ingredients that I had not previously tried, such as the burdock, which I loved. The acclaim which has been given to Providence and Chef Cimarusti is well deserved. I am confident they will be a staple in the Los Angeles food scene for many years to come.